Macrocruise

Gradina & “Mars”

Žirje to remember

On Žirje, where the pines smell of resin and the sea is never completely quiet, there’s a place that doesn’t ask you to “understand” it — only to feel it. Gradina stands high, like an old thought at the edge of the sky: walls that once answered fear now invite calm. You don’t come here only for the view, but for that feeling that, for a moment, you’ve stepped outside of time.

The walk up to Gradina is a small island story: footsteps on stone, silence cut by the wind, and a horizon that widens with every step. When you finally arrive, you understand why people chose this peak — from here you can see the sea arriving from every direction, and bays that look as if they were drawn to hide and shelter. Today, instead of guards, there are only the sun, clouds and seagulls, but the sense of “watching over” remains — as if the place teaches you to look far, and leave your thoughts close.

And then comes what islanders love most — a legend. It’s said that Queen Teuta once cast her gaze from Gradina. Whether she truly stood here or it’s simply a tale the sea carried from other shores doesn’t really matter; legend has its own truth. In it, Gradina isn’t just a fort — it’s a lookout for waiting: a place where sails on the horizon are followed, late boats are counted, and returns mean more than words.

The best time to come is near the end of the day. Then the stone turns warm, the shadows stretch, and the sea takes on that colour that makes people forget to hurry. From the top of Gradina, everything seems simpler: small worries fit in the palm of your hand, while what matters stays big — friends, the scent of the island, and the thought that for centuries people here hoped for the same things: a safe return, a peaceful night, and a light waiting somewhere.

How to reach Gradina (Žirje)

The easiest way is by boat from nearby marinas on the mainland. A good option is to arrive and moor in Vela Stupica Bay (anchorage/mooring buoys), then walk up to Gradina.
From the bay to the fort it’s roughly 15–20 minutes of easy walking (depending on pace and your exact starting point). Tip: trainers, water, and come close to sunset.

Lagoon 40 “Mars” from Vodice – a comfortable choice for Žirje

If you want Žirje to be both a trip and a proper break, our pick is the Lagoon 40 catamaran “Mars” from ACI Marina Vodice — the base is about 10 nautical miles from Žirje, and the boat is currently available at promotional prices (approx. 30%–45% off) on open dates.

Mars (Lagoon 40) offers: